Steak houses come in a variety of styles from the bring-the-family Sizzler to bring-the-cash-only Peter Luger. Abel Conklin, Huntington Village's resident haven for steak lovers, is well placed at the upper end of the scale. The comfortable dining room offers intimate booths and nicely spaced tables, the wine list (recipients of the Wine Spectator's Award of Excellence 1988 and 1989) emulates the great steak houses of Manhattan and the menu offers a splendid selection of prime meats and seafood.

Fresh clams and oysters, when available, are good starters, as is the jumbo shrimp cocktail. Being a steak house, this is probably the place to sample steak tartare, but no one at our table took the plunge. Instead, we opted for gravlax, a subtly flavored smoked salmon sliced paper thin, accentuated by a zesty honey-flavored mustard, chopped sweet onions and capers.

Entrees come with either soup or salad and choice of potatoes and vegetables, but a variety of all the above is also offered a la carte. Lobster bisque was everything it promised, full of succulent meat and bursting with flavor. The lettuce in the house salad looked a little tired, but the surrounding medley of vegetables was fine. The salad dressing is served on the side in miniature gravy boats, a nice touch. Caesar, tomato or mixed green salads are also available.

Meats and seafood are generally treated simply. A mammoth cut of porterhouse steak - you can order one that feeds up to four people - was butter-knife tender and delicious right from the grill, but don't hesitate to try the noteworthy steak sauce. A duo of two-inch lamb chops with mint jelly was also sublime. If you're looking for something a little more adventurous, you might try the veal medallions sauteed with red currants and brandy or the sweet and sour chicken with Chinese cabbage. Fish lovers, don't despair - filet of Norwegian salmon, lemon baked with a crust of whole peppercorns, was bitingly peppery - a superb foil to this delicious fish. Orange roughy, a mild whitefish native to New Zealand waters, was offered baked in a dill sauce. Either fish can also be ordered cajun style.

A la carte vegetables are particularly good, but so are the ones that come with the meal. Crispy steak fries and deftly seasoned spinach will easily satisfy most diners. Sugar snap peas, sauteed mushrooms and heavenly hashed brown potatoes carry an extra charge.

Save room for deserts - they're baked on the premises and can also be purchased for take-home. Your waiter will bring a tray so you can see that the desserts look as good as they sound. Chocolate mousse cake was our favorite, more cake than mousse-like with a light whipped cream topping. I would have enjoyed a more buttery crust and a bit less raspberry jam on my linzer tart, but it was still quite good. Cheesecake, key lime pie and pecan pie also looked tempting.

In conclusion, this restaurant can hardly be called inexpensive, but these days when a la carte is the rule in many restaurants, Abel Conklin gives you a lot for your money.